We have known for years that Vitamin C, used topically can improve skin tone, texture and overall health. We also know Vit C in its traditional formulation is one of the most unstable molecules and therefore, has a very short shelf life and efficacy expectancy. However, advances in the study of skin care ingredients has now brought us a new formulation of Vit C, that is significantly more stable, and effective.
This new formulation is, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, which is key in the formulation as it allows the product to penetrate deeper into the epidermis, as opposed to aqueous (water based) formulas. Human skin is both lipid and aqueous, therefore in order for a product to adequately penetrate it also needs to mimic this same composition or the skin rejects the product and we do not receive the full benefit. Many Vit C Serums also contain Vit E (Alpha Tocopherol) to create a serum that has a lipid ingredient. The problem with this combination is that Vit E is known to cause signifiant blackheads in many patients and therefore not an ideal formulation.
So, what does Vitamin C actually DO for our skin? It increases collagen levels, reduces melanin production (which causes brown spots), brightens skin, and actually repairs the effects of UV exposure and other environmental damage.
According to Epilution.com, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate also has the ability to stimulate the skin to produce glycosaminoglycans, natural moisturizers that allow skin to absorb moisture from the body itself.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is considered a mild version of Vitamin C, and also remains stable in air and water for up to 18 months, allowing it to serve as a long-lasting antioxidant…this is HUGE! How many of you have purchased a Vit C serum, only to have it turn dark brown after a couple weeks due to rapid oxidation?
Because this ingredient is significantly more effective in lower concentrations than traditional Vitamin C, it has also been found to be gentler and work in some people who are resistant to ascorbic acid (Natural-Skin-Care-Info.com).
According to a study published in Dermatologic Surgery entitled “Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage,” Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate “penetrates directly into the epidermis and dermis, acting both as an antioxidant and a direct stimulant of new collagen,” unlike other ascorbic acids, which are released into the stratum corneum and protect the skin only as an antioxidant. Significant improvement was found when patients applied a 7% concentration of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate with a 10% concentration of ascorbic acid and saw a decrease in visible photoaging and increased collagen production, thanks to the delivery and penetration abilities of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
This new formula can be found in Revision Skin Care’s Vit C 30% serum and Rejuva MD’s Vit C’s. For more information, contact Barbie WInterbottom at Advanced Aesthetics in Tampa, FL, 813.251.5772
